Our only mission that day was to keep them awake. Keeping them up on the drive home was pretty easy as we kept them talking. When we got back we went on base to get gas, and showed them around. Once we got them home and let them get oriented, they started to get tired. Really tired. So we threw them back in the car and drove them to Luxembourg. We took them to the American Military Cemetery, which we went to with my parents when they were here. On my second time through, I was struck by how much this cemetery reminds me of Arlington with the perfect rows of white tombstones. We also took them to the German Military Cemetery up the road so they could compare the two. Josh and I spent our time picking out more German names for our future animals (uh, I'll explain that more some other time). The in-laws seemed to enjoy themselves... and our little side trip helped to keep them awake for the day.
The next morning we were up early to start our real trip. I had calculated it out and realized we would have to leave the house and be on the road by 7. I felt bad, and kind of Nazi-ish because I knew everyone would be tired and would want to sleep in. But we had a five hour drive ahead of us. We arrived at our first stop - Neuschwanstein Castle. I had learned when I was there with my parents that the ticket line for the castle is long, so Andie (step-mom) and I leaped out of the car before it even stopped moving and ran to get in line for tickets. Even though we got to the castle at 1, our tour wasn't until 5. We spent that time enjoying beer in the beer garden. When in Rome... I enjoyed our tour of the castle (even the second time around) and I felt like I saw/picked up on things I had missed before. The weather, however, did not cooperate with our visit. It was foggy. So foggy in fact you could hardly see the castle. I took the in-laws out to a bridge which, on a good day, would give you great views of the castle and some amazing picture opportunities. Instead... you couldn't see a thing. I know I don't have any control over the weather, and none of it is my fault... but I still felt bad. It stinks to go somewhere to see something and have the weather impede on your experience.
We made our way to Garmish to Edelweiss, which is the military resort I stayed at with my parents when they were here. This time instead of staying in the hotel, we had booked a cabin. The cabin worked out perfectly. My in-laws had their own bedroom, there was a little kitchen area and a table, and Josh and I had a loft area upstairs to use. The same price as a hotel room but easier to share with 4 adults. The perfect amount of space.
The next day we went to Linderhof Palace. I went there with my parents, but again, it was neat to see things for a second time and pick up on new details or information. My father-in-law particularly enjoyed the hall of mirrors. It was also interested because when I was there with my parents they were just getting the landscaping ready for the tourist season. This time the flowers were in bloom and all of the fountains were going, which I hadn't seen before. After our tour of the Palace we had a quick lunch/snack. I convinced the in-laws to try a curry wurst, which is a bratwurst which has been grilled, sliced into pieces, and covered with curry ketchup and curry powder. Curry ketchup - by the way - is amazing. It doesn't necessarily taste like ketchup. It has an interesting flavor, especially if you like curry. The in-laws were fans.
We then went onto Oberammergau. I had been there with my parents, and I thought it was a quaint, stereotypical Bavarian town. We wandered around the streets and did some souvenir shopping. A woman who owns a shop recognized and remembered me being in her store with my parents. Since we were "repeat" customers she gave us a discount. I was definitely impressed with her memory!
The next morning we got up early to catch the train into Munich for Oktoberfest. As I ranted before, I wasn't exactly thrilled at the idea of going as I've heard plenty of non-enthusiastic reviews of it. But. I put on a happy face and told myself to keep an open mind. Anything above a disaster was going to be a success in my book. The weather had finally cleared, so we had a beautiful train ride into Munich. When we got to the station, I took off walking following a giant sign which said "Oktoberfest." My father-in-law asked me how I knew where I was going... and I told him I was following the lederhosen. Which was true. In Bavaria is it perfectly normal to see people dressed in lederhosen and dirndles at any time of the year, not just at Oktoberfest. However, with Oktoberfest EVERYONE was in their German get-up. And not just the Germans, many tourists were dressed up too. I think it's safe to say that we were some of the few who weren't dressed up.
Although I had seen pictures on line of Oktoberfest and I knew what to expect, I was still impressed. It is HUGE. To try to describe it to anyone who hasn't gone... it's a really large paved area which has lot of booths selling food and souvenirs, beer tents (which aren't exactly tents, they are more like a big permanent building), carnival rides, and midway games. So... basically like a fair minus 4-H, FFA, animals, or horse racing. Only the biggest fair you've ever seen with more beer. We got to the grounds around 11, and we didn't have a reservation for a table, so I figured we'd better try to get into a tent right away as that might be our best shot. We went to the Hofbrau tent (one of the more popular and well known tents) and were able to get a seat right away. We were served our 1 liter glasses of beer (it sounds big, but trust me, the more you drink of it, the smaller it seems) and ordered half chickens (yes you read that right. You get served half of a chicken... as in they fried it and took a giant knife to cut it in half). There was live music from a brass band (again, this could be the beer talking, but the Bavarian polka music was quite festive and fun). I realized as I gazed around the tent that this was fun. Quite fun. A blast! Why did I not want to come here before? This was GREAT!!! Germans sang along with the music, danced, stood up on tables and chugged their entire beer as the crowd cheered along. In fact there were many chugging contests... and it turns out chanting "Chug chug chug!!!" while someone is guzzling a mug of beer is universal.
After our beer and lunch, we decided to wander around. Most of the major beer tents also had horse-drawn wagons. There were 6 huge horses with fancy garb pulling a decorated wagon which had the brand of the beer tent on it. Most of the wagons had wood kegs, but I'm assuming they were empty. The wagons seemed to go from one end of the grounds to the other stopping for people to pet the horses and take pictures. Maybe not exactly a functional thing, but still interested. We decided to go for a ride in the giant ferris wheel which dominates the Oktoberfest grounds. The cart you sit in is enclosed and it is big - it held eight people. The ride made for a great way to get an bird's-eye view of the grounds... although I was sitting in the wrong spot to get any good pictures. It was still a really neat ride. After the ferris wheel my father-in-law, Josh, and I decided to ride one of the roller coasters. I like roller coasters for the most part because I can ride them. Any fair ride which spins in circles will make me sick, but for some reason I can do a coaster. The roller coaster we went on had five loops as they represented the Olympic rings. It was a lot of fun, although I screamed for most of the ride. Josh and his dad spent their whole ride laughing at my screaming.
The rest of the afternoon we just enjoyed the festivities and had some good food. We left around 5, and at that time there were plenty of drunks stumbling around and getting sick. I could see where the bad things I had heard from others came into play. So going on a weekday in the afternoon was the right choice. And it was definitely not a disaster and was a lot of fun. I enjoyed myself immensely.
The next day when we woke up it was another clear, beautiful day. We decided to take advantage of it and went up Zugspitze. Again, it was interested to compare when I went with my parents to this trip. When I went with my parents there was still a lot of snow covering the mountians. This time the mountains were more bare and brown looking. Being up Zugspitze gave great views of the beautiful fall colors below. The Austrian side was open this time, which it wasn't before. It was kind of neat to realize as you walked across the deck you were crossing into a new country. My in-laws really enjoyed themselves. I didn't have as many problems with vertigo this time around and felt less panicked. Maybe it was because I knew what to expect. It was nice to actually enjoy myself rather than feel shaky and anxious the whole time. After Zugspitze we made the drive to Dachau concentration camp. When I went with my parents we spent a very long time in the museum. The museum there is interested, but full of information. After you've seen the camp and felt so many emotions spending hours reading more information about it is system overload. I had warned my in-laws of this so we did a very abridged version of the museum, which I think worked well. That night we went to a traditional German restaurant for dinner, and my in-laws were thoroughly impressed. They proclaimed their love for schnitzel and spatzel.
Thursday turned out to be another beautiful, clear day, so we took advantage of it by going to the Eagle's Nest. When I attempted to go with my parents it was still closed because of snow. This time it was open. You have to get to the Eagle's Nest via bus, you're not allowed to drive up to it. I have to say, I'm glad I (or Josh) wasn't driving up that road... but good LORD what a bus ride. That bus driver must either have nerves of steel, or he has a bottle of hootch he take pulls on during the day. The road up to the Eagle's Nest is narrow and full of switchbacks and hair-pin turns. We were sitting in the back of the bus, and at one point in time we went around a corner which turned 90 degrees. It almost felt as if you were on a roller coaster ride. I would say not in a good way, but my mother-in-law laughed hysterically... possibly from nerves. The bus drops you off at the base of the compound. you have to walk through a tunnel and then take an elevator into the Eagle's Nest. The Eagle's Nest is now just a restaurant and there really isn't much left from when it was Hitler's retreat. However, it provided some amazing views. Behind the Eagle's Nest is some hiking, which allows you to go up to the top of the mountain peak. Josh and his step-mom climbed up it like expert mountain goats while his dad and I huffed our way up it a bit slower. But, the hike was worth it as it gave unparalleled views and photo opportunities. We had a quick lunch at the resturant before taking the terrifying bus ride back down to the bottom. It wasn't any easier going down.
Josh's dad came down with a cold and spent Friday morning and afternoon lazying around in bed. I felt bad that he got sick on his vacation. We decided to let him rest and went into Garmish to shop and wander around. It turned out to be a nice afternoon. That evening we went on a brewery tour - the same one I went on with my parents. My in-laws and Josh really seemed to enjoy themselves as I hoped they would. When I went on the tour before I spent most of the time thinking Josh would really like it.
Saturday morning we got up, packed the car, and took off. My step-mom's family is originally from Germany, and there is a Scheuering, Germany. Scheuering was suppose to be about an hour from Munich, and I figured we could swing through there on our way home. Scheuering is just a little town in the middle of farmland, but my step-mom was happy to see it and take some pictures. It did put us a bit out of the way, and what would normally be about a six hour drive turned into an even longer one... We got stuck in some construction and were in grid-lock traffic. What should have taken us six hours was close to about nine. UGH. It was a long drive home.
Sunday was spent relaxing at our house. My father-in-law still had his nasty cold, so he spent the day in and out of bed napping. The rest of us lazed around reading and watching movies. We had to go back to the airport early Monday morning. It is always difficult to see people go, and I discovered it is hard to say goodbye even when it isn't your parents. My in-laws really enjoyed themselves, and I think (I hope) this trip ignited their curiosity so they want to come back.
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